26/05/2012 Training in the Akamas Forest - Cyprus

Now just because you're going on holiday, doesn't mean you can skip the Trailwalker training schedule I told myself. A holiday in Cyprus and staying right on the edge of the Akamas Forest offers a wealth of training opportunities in a place I've visited on several occasions over the years. The only issue was that this training would have to be done solo as my wife Kate having been dragged on a 10 miler last year informed me "Never again" and my in-laws having been dragged up what we now call "Andrew's Mountain" three years ago (more on that later) were somewhat reluctant to join me again and opted to stay by the pool.

Andrew's Mountain in the middle seen from the villa.

This left a few logistical issues to deal with. Firstly, before working out how far to plan, I'd need to work out how much water I'll drink to ensure I can get back without becoming dehydrated in temperatures pushing 30 degrees. My Camelbak is a 3 Litre and I can carry an extra bottle so planned for 4 hours. The second issue was the midday sun, from past experience, not something to be out in here and conform to the 'Mad Dog and Englishmen' stereotype. I decided I'd do two walks, one setting off early and returning by 11am and then a second setting off around 2pm to avoid the worst of the heat and test my recovery powers.

The picnic area at Smigies

Up at 6:45am (an ungodly hour in anyone's dictionary but on holiday it should be illegal) I was on the trail at 7:05am. My plan was to walk from our villa, into the Akamas and reach what we call Andrew's Mountain. 

The real name for this hill is Pano Vahines a flat-topped hill at 370m above sea level. The story behind its alternative naming is that three years ago, I dragged my father-in-law Andrew and his partner Helen out for a little stroll. After taking a the wrong path (the maps aren't good here) we ended up climbing upwards from near sea-level along a zig-zagging goat trail. About half-way up, Andrew informed me he suffered from vertigo and froze.

Faced with calling in the helicopters we managed to inch our way upwards with him looking at his feet and me on the outside of the trail stopping him looking down. While he was a nervous wreck at the top and drenche din sweat - he did it and since then we've renamed it in his honour.

This chap didn't make it across

This time however, my plan was to take the widely used route behind the mountain and a route which would take me about 10km to the summit and the same back again. The bonus of setting off early is the serene peace of the place around you - nobody about and nature just beginning to stir onto life. I was soon past the popular picnic area at Smigies and along the trail past the Fire Lookout Tower. The one thing to be wary of in the Akamas is snakes. There are 8 different species from memory and most are harmless but the one that is potentially deadly is the Blunt-nosed Viper. Up until last year, I'd never seen a snake in the Akamas until a 6ft long black snake crossed the trail infront of me and my wife so I am constantly scanning the trail ahead these days.

Looking northwest from the top of Andrew's Mountain

The dusty trail winds in and out and up and down and most of the time the summit is in view but seemingly not getting any closer. The air was starting to warm up rapidly and the white dust of the trail reflected the heat and light making shades essential to avoid 'snowblindess'. 

One useful hint I've picked up is to blow back the water in the Camelbak once you've had a sip - this avoids the water in the tube becoming tepid and keeps the contents of the Camelbak cold even after four hours in the heat.

Eventually I reached a familiar section of road leading to the base of the mountain and was soon hiking to the summit. 

Reaching the top at just under my 2hr target, I decided to down a banana and an Alpen bar while taking in the view and looking down at the goat trail below the cliff - perhaps I'll get chance to drag my wife up it before this holiday is out.

Grasshopper Island

A quick check to see how much water was left in the Camelbak found it was about half-way and I was soon off on the return leg of the walk back to the villa. The whole time I passed one Cypriot in a pick-up and a couple sat at one of the benches at the Smigies picnic site and that was it managing to get back to the villa by my 11am target time completing the 19.3km with 496m of climb in 3hrs 47mins. 
Returning back to the villa for a cooling swim and a bite to eat, I noticed I'd rubbed up a blister on my right heel - not somewhere I'd previously had a problem with so dropped a blister plaster on it and taped my feet up (having decided not to bother in the morning). The right calf was feeling tight again and no attempts at stretching seemed to relieve it which didn't bode well for the afternoons walk. 

The west side of the island looking south to Seacaves

Setting off for the Akamas again at 2pm was a little harder but once again I headed towards Smigies via a different route and my plan this time was to head to the coast path and go South. This is a route I have not been on since I was on holiday here 7 years ago and was joined by Red Leader as we inadvisably took a hire car along this route built for four-wheel-drives and mountain goats only and I'd forgotten the twists and turns as the road winds in and out of the mountainside, descending to a low point before climbing all the way back up. While the view across this side of the island is spectacular, you have the feeling of going nowhere fast thanks to the constant twists in the road.

Here come the goats - let the staring commence

My plan was to walk for 2hrs or about 10km and then turn and head back. As the road climbed to the top again I came to a junction in the road and realising that I could get back to Smigies a different way, I decided to risk the unknown and take the different path. I was quickly met by herd after herd of goats who regarded me with instant suspicion and froze dead in their tracks. As I continued to approach, panic ensued as the goats realised I was still coming towards them despite their best efforts to stare me out. Scrambling up the sides of the trail, the goats parted in front of me obviously terrified they would end up as some sort of kebab.

Welcome to the Wild West - Hunting Prohibited

This was obviously a more popular route than the twists and turns of the coast road as first quad-bikes and then hired hatchbacks came trundling past me leaving me wondering how it was we didn;t find this road 7 years ago and instead endured the twist, turns and cavernous potholes of the coast road in our humble hire car. This was also backed up by the route being 2km shorter on the way back than it was going thanks to the twists being ironed out getting me back to the villa well ahead of schedule after the reduced 16km walk with 412m of climb in 3hrs 13minutes


The days total stands in at 35.3km, 908m of climb and 7hrs of walking which was a pleasing total in the heat and good preparation should we by some miracle have a proper July for a change. 

Things learned from this hot walk:
1. Water consumption was about 50% higher needing about 650ml-700ml per hour
2. Blowing water back down the tube of your Camelbak keeps it refreshing
3. Factor 50 does the job nicely - no sunburn after 7 hours in the sun
4. Feet sweat - a lot - definitely change those socks
5. A change of underwear is advisable - must look at wicking pants!